Last weekend I finished reading Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux. I’ve been wanting to read one of Theroux’s books for a long time because from what I’ve gathered he sets the bar for travel writing. In this book he relates a journey made overland (except for one flight) from Cairo to Cape Town, so it seemed appropriate to begin reading the book on my trip to South Africa before Christmas but to be honest I didn’t get much headspace or time for reading so only really got into it after Christmas. The verdict? It’s a really good read and he’s a great writer, he definitely knows what he’s doing. But to be honest if I met him I don’t think I’d like the guy. He comes across a bit arrogant and ‘up himself’, and despite the fact that it’s the people stories which bring life and colour to his story-telling, I’m not altogether sure he actually likes people. Wikipedia describes his writing as misanthropic so I guess that fits. Initially I thought he wasn’t prepared to rough it because he seemed to spend a lot of time ‘swanning’ around consulate parties, hob-nobbing with the local Who’s Who and getting driven round sights of interest, so I wasn’t getting a sense of gritty travelling. However that perception changed when he got a ride on a truck crossing Kenya and the truck got shot at by local bandits. Fair play – I’d be on the next plane home after something like that!
Having lived in parts of Africa 40 years previously to writing this book, Theroux is qualified to offer some insights on the changes he observes in the countries he travels through, and alas most don’t seem to be for the better. His perception is that foreign aid has made things much worse for the ordinary people creating a dependency on donor intervention perpetuated by corruption at the top. He is extremely scathing of aid workers as ignorant and blatantly unhelpful types. And the Christians he encounters all seem to be rather one-dimensional in a cringe-y kind of way. All this kind of wrecked my head a little bit, but I think in a good way. A reviewer countered the aid agency criticisms in the book saying that Theroux didn’t actually visit aid projects for himself in order to make a judgement on the value of their contribution – fair point. However I think the book has helped me to think through some of the notions we have about the Third World and how we in the West help or rather, think we help. I haven’t got it all figured out yet but my current work experience in Public Achievement is helping me to value the place of citizenship education much more highly than I did previously. If governments don’t function as they should so much can go south. It’s not enough to chuck money at a country, support for good governance is also needed. Who the heck am I to think I have any answers? I don’t but it’s good to wrestle with this kind of stuff.
So do I recommend this book? Yes definitely, I think if you’ve ever been to Africa, if you’re going to Africa, if you’d like to go to Africa… then read it. You’ll not necessarily agree with everything, you won’t necessarily have (had) the same experiences as the author, but there’s challenging insight, entertaining commentary and sights and sounds of this vast and fascinating continent aplenty.














